ABOUT THE VILLAOn 6 acres of pristine Mexican coastline — and soaring 120 feet above the ocean atop a sheer, vertical cliff — there stands a house that is not a house. And while we, must grapple with words like “bedroom” and “living space” to convey its essence in some kind of tangible way, only those who have witnessed it first-hand can truly appreciate it — even if they, themselves, can barely find the words to describe it. This “non-house” is called Casa Tritón. What follows is a story about this non-house — and about an equally surreal place called Careyes, which like the dwelling couldn’t possibly exist. And yet, for the fortunate few who make the journey, who experience the “palapa” lifestyle, and become enthralled with the place and its people — it most certainly and thankfully does.
For almost 40 years, informed and enlightened travelers have ventured to this not-so-distant part of the world. And along the way, Careyes has quietly earned a reputation as the thinking man’s alternative to St. Barth’s or St. Tropez — with every bit as much outdoor adventure, and a healthy dose of Euro-style La Dolce Vita. Visitors rent villas or casitas — often with extended families in tow. Once there, they snorkel, horseback ride and snooze by day to the sounds of exotic birds and ocean waves — and party at night to the beats of DJs imported from as far away as Paris. All the while, they’re treated as locals — whether by the residents or by the natural surroundings. And not coincidentally, part of that hospitality comes from the house itself — because the essential difference between Casa Tritón and other villas is in its mind and mood-altering design.
The story of Casa Tritón — the crown jewel of the Careyes community — begins with the development of Careyes itself. In the late 1960s and early 70s, resort developer Gian Franco Brignone commissioned a villa on an otherwise uninhabited point just a few hours south of Puerto Vallarta. The concept was an early form of eco-tourism — and the philosophy became the foundation for an entire enclave of luxury villas.
For Mi Ojo, the first villa to be built in Careyes, Brignone secured the services of an architect by the name of Marco Aldaco. He had seen one of Aldaco’s homes in Acapulco, where the architect was creating what would become known simply as the “modernist palapa” style. Most easily distinguished by the use of its namesake “palapas” — steeply sloping thatched roofs supported only at the corners by thick posts made from tree trunks — the broader palapa concept promoted a distinctive lack of reliance on such man-made contrivances as windows, doors —and in some cases even walls. Aldaco followed Mi Ojo with two more homes in Careyes, including a palapa-style house called Maoritze. Then, some 25 later, Maoritze’s owner hired Aldaco to design a new structure to be located adjacent to his first.
If Frank Lloyd Wright surmised that a dwelling should respond to its site and its surroundings, then Aldaco’s creation takes that hypothesis to its logical and altogether brilliant conclusion. Casa Tritón not only blends comfortably into its environment — it becomes the environment. Here, there is no distinction between the house and the land or the house and the air. Or even the house and the water, for that matter. An infinity pool connects each section of the Casa Tritón to the next, so it’s possible to wake up from an afternoon nap in the bedroom and swim all the way to dinner. Aldaco also had lights aimed on an offshore rock formation — making even the seascape itself part of his composition. But the one thing that makes Casa Triton unique among all the villas in Careyes is that Aldaco didn’t just carefully arrange a grouping of palapas on a scenic overlook. Instead, he uses those forms together to create spaces between structures — “negative spaces” without any walls — which by their inter-relationship with the rest of the scheme become as integral to the flow as any other element. Aldaco even used the gardens architecturally here, a room’s fourth wall might actually be a hedge. And incredibly, on the rare occasion when it rains in Careyes, guests at the dining room table are treated to a fabulous mist.
Even the site plan was developed of the earth, not in spite of it. Aldaco naturally drew inspiration from the majestic bluff and its incomparable vistas. But what’s truly noteworthy is the extent to which the architect let the land determine the layout. Aldaco camped out on the site for weeks to study and learn it — the views of the water and the mountains, the direction of the rain, the wind patterns, and even the light and shade. He identified the best sight lines, imagining everything from the view through a window or passageway to an uninterrupted panorama. Then, satisfied that he had achieved a perfect compromise between man and nature, he sketched the plan for Casa Tritón in the dirt at full scale — and had it photographed from a helicopter.
The result is a place that not only lets visitors gaze out over a 270-degree expanse of sea and mountains, but also forces them to completely disavow their traditional views about indoors and outdoors in the process. Each morning, as her guests push aside the simple shutters, Casa Tritón opens up to the world. The living and dining areas — and even the master bath — are each open on three sides. The breakfast room and sunset lounge have no walls at all. Birds fly right through the media room. And regardless of socioeconomic standing, Tritón’s human occupants are required to share their temporary shelter with the resident frogs, birds and butterflies. One could imagine a painting by Henri Rousseau without the limitations of frame and canvas — or a five-star hotel with turndown service provided by the breeze.
Being the non-house that it is (or isn’t), Casa Tritón, of course, defies description in more ways than one. Living is where Casa Tritón comes alive, and the people of Careyes know how to live. Meals are taken outdoors as the space dictates. Visitors host parties for friends, and family and Tritón plays the perfect hostess — with some expert assistance from the full-time staff of nine, which includes a butler, a gourmet chef, a houseboy, three maids and three gardeners — where champagne flows outdoors to the sounds of Beethoven mixed with the breakers, and where it’s not unusual to get lost in the glow of several hundred lighted candles on the terraces beneath an intensely starry sky.
GETTING THERE
One round-trip transfer from the airport to the villa is included in the price of rental for up to 4 people. Additional guests are advised to hire a private taxi recommended by the manager.
VILLA POLICIES
- The villa can accommodate a maximum of 8 guests.
- Children are welcome, but a minimum age of 12 is recommended.
SERVICES AVAILABLE
- Prestocking is available at no extra charge aside from cost of groceries. Guests pay staff directly in cash.
- Nearby hotel has range of activities available, including horseback riding.
- A fishing boat with fishing equipment and an excellent fisherman for 1000 USD per week.
- Dial-up internet connection is available at no extra charge.
